If you get free gas, you can drive around all day checking spots.
If you trust the forecast websites you can continuously check those.
If you have a photographic memory you can just remember the best conditions for each spot.
The truth is that most of us don’t get free gas, don’t trust the forecast websites, and don’t have a photographic memory.
People like us need a better system. Luckily the system has been around for a long time and it’s proven to work. Skip Frye uses it and if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for you.
Keep a goddamn journal
Keep a goddamn journal. Every time you surf write down:
- The spot name
- The time
- Details about the session (who you surfed with, what the waves were like, what board you rode, etc)
- Condition data from the closest buoys. Make sure to get at least the primary swell, wind, and tide. See here on how to find the closest buoys
I can already hear you complaining about how much work this is. Here’s why it’s worth it:
- Nostalgia
- Tracking how your surfing improves (if you’re into that)
- Most importantly: Next time the buoy conditions match one of your sessions you’ll know exactly what the waves will be like.
You think the crusty old locals know exactly where to go on a 4ft, 210° south swell with a slight wind from the west and a low tide because Surfline told them??? Nah… it’s because they surfed it in those conditions 20 years ago and managed to not forget the exact combination of conditions that make that spot go off.
Bottom line
With more and more people picking up surfing it’s going to be harder and harder to find good waves in an uncrowded lineup – the best way to do that is to know what spots are best for each set of conditions. Focus on figuring out spots without cameras on them and keep a journal to help you get each spot on lock.