Climate Crisis and Surfing: A Look Into The Future

Since the start of the Industrial Revolution, the Earth’s overall temperature has been rising. The heating of the planet is in strong correlation with increased human activity. Human activity is related to carbon dioxide (CO2) which is released every time coal, oil, or natural gas is burned. Greenhouse gases, such as CO2, capture the Sun’s energy extremely efficiently and remain in the atmosphere for centuries. This added human-caused CO2 has been infecting the ocean and is leading to chain reactions already being observed worldwide. Water levels rise, hurricanes and typhoons strengthen, and precipitation increases because of the added energy CO2 captures in the water and air. However, how do these snowballing changes in the Earth’s climate affect surfing? Sadly, quite a bit.

Sea Level Rise

As the Earth warms, land ice on Greenland and Antarctica will melt and flow to the oceans. In addition to the new icemelt, water will undergo a process called thermal expansion. Thermal expansion is when the water molecules themselves get bigger in size from becoming hotter. This new surge of water has the possibility to currently raise the global ocean’s level by at least 3 feet in 2100. Ignoring the monstrous negative impact this will have on the lives of a few hundred million people leads to the question, how will this impact the surf?

Simply put, it will disrupt where the waves break. Waves break when they are in water which is 1.5x their height. A good way to think of this is that a 4 foot wave will break in 6 feet of water. As the water level rise, this will lead to waves breaking farther out on reefs. This has the ability to alter wave breaks compared to previous water levels. The next generation in the 22nd century might wonder what made Pipeline or Bells Beach so famous. Hopefully they find new iconic spots.

Storm Power

Carbon dioxide captures energy. As the water that is filled with more CO2 heats up from extra energy, storms will increase in strength. This happens when tropical storms pass over patches of warm water and suck up the heat energy from the water. Hurricanes and cyclones become stronger almost overnight because of this energy gain. Storms of higher magnitudes have the ability to rage upon shores that are commonly surfed. Corals can be broken and destroyed by single storms. Over multiple years with many storms, these breakages can modify the seafloor where the waves break influencing the surf.

Run-Off Pollution

Climate instability is impacting locations over the entire world. In general however, the climate scientists claim wet places are getting wetter and dry places are getting drier. Increasing precipitation collects industrial and agricultural pollutants such as fertilizer and wash them away from where they are being stored. These chemicals, which can cause cancer and other unfavorable diseases in humans, then flow along rivers and waterways towards oceans. As the climate heats, these pollutants will be increased in surf spots, which are usually found around the jetties and piers near these waterways.

This is the reality we live in. Our world is changing because of our past actions. However! There is still time to lessen the blow of these impacts. By remembering to be conscious of energy and environmental exploitation, we can all help in the struggle against the overheating of our climate. Voting in political candidates who support green policies can be a powerful weapon in the battle for good. If we want this sport to be available for the next generation, the daunting task ahead of us is worth the fight.