{"id":8,"date":"2019-08-13T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-08-13T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lazysurfer.app\/blog\/?p=8"},"modified":"2020-12-23T18:10:59","modified_gmt":"2020-12-23T18:10:59","slug":"reading-surf-forecasts-what-can-go-wrong-12d435be2f59","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lazysurfer.app\/blog\/reading-surf-forecasts-what-can-go-wrong-12d435be2f59\/","title":{"rendered":"Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong"},"content":{"rendered":"

Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong<\/h3>\n
\"\"
Credit to https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/stignygaard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the last article<\/a> we went over the 7 most common metrics you\u2019ll see on a surf forecast. In this article we\u2019ll talk about the ways a good looking 4\u20135 foot swell can go wrong and how you can use the metrics besides swell height to figure that out.<\/p>\n

Wrong Direction\u200a<\/strong>\u2014\u200aCheck out La Jolla Shores<\/a>\u200a\u2014\u200aif there\u2019s a swell coming from directly south the shores will most likely see little to none of it because the Village of La Jolla blocks swell from that direction.<\/p>\n

Wrong Period<\/strong>\u200a\u2014\u200aPeriod describes the time between waves but that\u2019s not why surfers care about it. We care because it\u2019s directly related to wave power<\/em><\/a> and wave diffraction<\/em><\/a>. Why we care about wave power is obvious and a longer period swell will have more power<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

In order to understand wave diffraction we must realize that waves bend around <\/em>corners.<\/em> If you are standing on the south side of a square building and your friend yells for you from the west side of the building you can hear her but you can\u2019t see her\u200a\u2014\u200athis is because sound waves are bending around the southwest corner of the building.<\/p>\n

Ocean waves do exactly the same thing. The important idea here though is not just that they bend but that the amount of energy they keep while bending <\/em>is related to the wave period. Longer period waves will keep more energy as they bend around corners.<\/strong><\/p>\n

That means that if there\u2019s a long period swell coming from the southwest without a direct path to La Jolla Shores (because it\u2019s blocked by La Jolla Village) we still may see good sized waves at La Jolla Shores\u200a\u2014\u200athe waves will keep more power as they diffract around La Jolla Village.<\/p>\n

Wrong Wind Direction\/Speed\u200a<\/strong>\u2014\u200aWind can have a significant impact on waves\u200a\u2014\u200athe same exact swell can be turned from an epic, barreling tube into a sloppy pile of junk by a change of the wind.<\/p>\n

Our 4\u20135 foot swell would be best served by no wind or a slight offshore wind. No wind would keep the waves pristine and a slight offshore (towards the face of the wave) would help to hold the waves vertical longer. A vertical wave is desirable because it allows you to generate speed easier.<\/p>\n

Wrong Tide Height\u200a<\/strong>\u2014\u200aTide height matters because the ocean floor matters<\/em>. The ocean floor is <\/strong>the wave\u200a\u2014\u200ait is directly responsible for the shape of the wave.<\/p>\n

The 4\u20135 foot swell we have our eyes on might peak during a very low tide. If we\u2019d like to surf a spot that becomes very shallow during a low tide then we\u2019re going to be surfing in a spot without much water between us and the bottom. This might be ok if we\u2019re particularly skilled or if the bottom is sand but otherwise it\u2019s probably best to surf at a different spot or a different time.<\/p>\n

Similarly we might want to surf when the tide height is quite high\u200a\u2014\u200ain this case we might have the opposite problem and there may be too much water between us and the features of the ocean floor that create good waves. You\u2019ll hear surfers talk about how a spot is \u201cmushy\u201d or \u201cslow\u201d\u200a\u2014\u200athese can be indicators that the tide is too high for the spot.<\/p>\n

To be clear, not all breaks follow the above example\u200a\u2014\u200asome work well when its a very low tide, a very high tide, or even both.<\/p>\n

Each surfing spot has one or more sets of ideal conditions<\/em>\u200a\u2014\u200ait\u2019ll work best on a 3 foot, 15 second swell if it\u2019s from 200\u00b0 and the tide is around 5 feet but it\u2019ll also work on a 6 foot swell if it\u2019s from 270\u00b0 and the tide is between 0 and 3 feet. To find these ideal conditions you\u2019ll need to either surf the spot regularly and keep track of what conditions work (plenty of apps<\/a> exist to help you do this) or you\u2019ll have to talk a salty old timer into telling you when it\u2019s best.<\/p>\n

Getting to know how to read a surf forecast and understanding how the metrics translate into waves is a vital step to becoming a competent surfer\u200a\u2014\u200astay tuned for more deep dives into the metrics and how they are collected.<\/p>\n

In our next post<\/a>, we\u2019ll go into detail on the metric that most people pay exclusive attention to – swell height.<\/p>\n

Lazy Surfer is the only personalized surf forecasting tool. Download for free today\u200a\u2014\u200alazysurfer.app<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong Credit to https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/stignygaard In the last article we went over the 7 most common metrics you\u2019ll see on a surf forecast. In this article we\u2019ll talk about the ways a good looking 4\u20135 foot swell can go wrong and how you can use the metrics besides swell height to … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nReading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong - Lazy Surfer Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lazysurfer.app\/blog\/reading-surf-forecasts-what-can-go-wrong-12d435be2f59\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong - Lazy Surfer Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Reading Surf Forecasts: What Can Go\u00a0Wrong Credit to https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/stignygaard In the last article we went over the 7 most common metrics you\u2019ll see on a surf forecast. 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